Thermonuclear Reactions

      
                           

                                                       USS Cape St. George
                                                                      CG 71

                                               Ensign Kevin Burns and grandfather
                                                     photo by Brian Burns

     In ceremonies this May, Kevin Burns graduated from Cornell University and was commissioned an Ensign in the U.S. Navy. In July he will begin study at the Navy's Nuclear Propulsion School in Charleston, S.C. with training for the submarine service. A final research paper at Cornell was entitled; Tactical Nuclear Weapons; Their Invention, Integration and Effect on Warfighting Doctrine from the 1940s to the 1970s. Kevin sent the paper to me, his grandfather aware of my interest in the subject and of course all his work.
     The paper carries the reader over a distressing several decades during which the planet was hostage to expanding nuclear forces and the possible threat of extinction. In 1945, SAC's General Curtis LeMay, the "father" of strategic firebombing said that the only nuclear bomb he wanted was one that could destroy all of Russia. J.Robert Oppenheimer was the "father" and "mother" of the American atomic bomb. "Opie" maintained that strategic nukes were unusable and ultimately self-defeating. They would have to be honed down to a less devastating size to have battle field value. Oppenheimer was declared a threat to national security, fired from his job and the U.S. proceeded to build the "super" weapon, a hydrogen bomb.* But the U.S. also developed "tactical" weapons and Secretary of State John Foster Dulles fully expected that these nukes would gradually replace conventional weapons and be used. In the 1950s, as the French military sank deeper into Vietnamese rain forests, Dulles offered the French for their use two nuclear weapons, ". . . neither one nor three, two!" ** The offer was not accepted.
     At about the same time the U.S. Navy distributed to personnel an elongated card, The Atomic, Biological and Chemical Warfare Handi-Pocket Reference. It was designed to be folded in two places and carried in the wallet. Thus it was readily available to help the sailor identify and deal with with suspicious incoming ordinance -  such as (paraphrase):
     Nerve Agents - Appearance, no distinctive appearance, no distinctive odor; Effects - no immediate effects - later headaches, shortness of breath, convulsions, paralysis of the respiratory organs; First Aid - Don mask - seek medical assistance.
     The ABC Handi-Pocket Reference was more helpful concerning a nuclear attack.
     Nuclear Weapon - Appearance, earthquake-like; Effects - bright light, concussion, heat, with causalities and damage dependent on distance from ground zero. First aid - seek medical assistance..
     My ABC Reference was never consulted in terror.But it remained in my wallet for decades until the USSR imploded - it now rests in a
Cuban cigar box among my most cherished collectibles.
      In March 1962, I sat at a steel gray desk staring at a card inscribed with one word "THINK". I did and then resigned from IBM. In September I started teaching at T.R. Proctor High School and over the next two years instructed students of grades 7,8,9,10, and 11. As my first class of 7th graders filed into the room I was struck by one characteristic - they were really short.. They also proved to be funny, there was much laughter. They were eager to learn anything. I would tell them ghost stories - then test - "Revolutionary War ghosts prefer to vacation at (A) Fort Ticonderoga, (B) Fort William Henry, (C) Fort Crown Point, (D) all of the above." But I digress.
     Monday morning, October 15th - the first day of the Cuban
Missile Crisis. Seventh graders entered the classroom and piled up around my desk asking questions. "Is there going to be a War?" "Are the Cubans going to invade us?" "Are the Russians going to bomb us?" "Are we going to be killed?" Absolutely surprised I spent the next twenty minutes saying soothing things to frightened children - "Stop it! There will be No War !" Having just said that for perhaps a fifth time the twenty foot window shade decided to race to the top
and slam repeatedly around the rod. The students screamed. I yelped. It was our introduction to war nerves.
     The 1970s witnessed the development of neutron bomb technology. There were high hopes for neutron weapons - such weapons might be ideal for urban combat - rooting out and killing guerrillas without devastating bridges and department stores.
Maybe yes, probably no. But as of 2015, with a single exception, nuclear armed nations  have been unwilling to use nuclear weapons in armed conflict. The exception was the U.S. that did use atomic bombs against Japan, a non nuclear state. To date nuclear armed nations have feared the "known" consequences that would inevitably follow an escalation into nuclear war, e.g. the scramble by most states to obtain their own nuclear arsenal. The "unknown" are horrific to imagine, e.g. how does a military planner identify his/her front line? But this nonuse could certainly change - and the rise of violent non state actors complicates things still further.
    The dance of the human species with "litt'le shyn'ng man the atom" as Riddley Walker would say continues.*** Atomic energy has brought benefits to millions and simultaneously extraordinary danger to the planet. There have been four catastrophes and one near miss - Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Chernobyl, Fukushima Daiichi and Three Mile Island. One wonders what's next.


Burns, Kevin. Tactical Nuclear Weapons unpublished manuscript. May 2015.
See Also: * Bird, Kai American Prometheus; J.Robert Oppenheimer 2007.
Cohen, S.T. The Truth About the Neutron Bomb 1983.
**Hearts and Minds  film   1974.
 ***Hoban, Russell. Riddley Walker 1980
Nichols, Thomas et al.Tactical Nuclear Weapons and NATO 2012.

Voyage From Sweden - John Oskar's Report (3 of 3)

   
ELLIS ISLAND: John Oskar Lindell; Arrival July 1, 1923; Scandinavian; 
                           Last residence, Botkyrka, Sweden; Age 19y; Male; Single; 
                           S/S Stockholm; Description, 5'11", Brown hair, Blue eyes,
                           Laborer; Address in US, Uncle Sigfrid Karlson, 36 Myrtle 
                           Ave, Jersey City, N.J.

 A few years later . . .  John Oskar and Mary Malone Lindell

      June 26, Tuesday, 3-4 PM

     The last 24 hours we have had the highest speed so far; 349 nautical-miles compared to the usual 325-345, thanks to the weather. Yesterday we had a complete "Grona Lund" amusement park on board. In II class as well as in III class there was dancing and on our deck a violin player, a real folk music player, and below the deck violin and piano and in the cabins concertina and mouth organ and some so-called singers. Today between 3 and 4 o'clock I will send the telegram that I mentioned to you. A guy who was sick during the whole journey did not get up until yesterday and among the women folks there are some still in bed. I on my part am completely well. I want Ester's and the Tureberg people's addresses, please don't forget that!

     The other day I got stuck with my raincoat in a deck chair. The slit got ripped up. The cleaning lady will mend it. Harry Vinther sends his regards to the Vallgrens. He is an able-bodied seaman on board. Tell Tore and Sigrid to learn how to swim this year as it is very good to know. They say that it is very warm weather in America. When I get there I shall have to take off long johns and a couple of shirts. The Soderfors boy whom Uncle Otto introduced me to at the Central Station is a skillful violin player. He often plays on board. He is an iron-turner by profession. He does not travel alone, he is accompanied by his sister. There are people from all over Sweden here and some Germans, Jews, Finns and Russians too. Stockholm is badly represented. Those from Stockholm have not got any travel money. I wouldn't have any either, if not . . . (?)
     I want Uncle Alfred's and Uncle Otto's addresses. I will write cards sometime. Ask the garden hand at Stavshall if he could take some snaps/photos of you.He is a good photographer. Then you will send me pictures too. I might have forgotten to pack my shaving brush. I will search through my luggage once more. I have a very bad pencil.
     June 28, Thursday, 2 PM
     Today the boy from Gotland and I had a drink of my cordial, it tasted very good. I found the soap brush at the same moment. I no longer feel sick by the air indoors, as I did the first time on board when I only wanted to throw up as soon as I got under deck. The number of letter writers is increasing. One notices this as we are approaching the destination. I misled you about the boy from Gotland. He has met his father. His mother did not want to go. The last 24 hours we have covered 330 nautical-miles. It gets warmer everyday. One takes off heaps of underwear. The air in the cabins starts getting stuffy.
     John Vedin is an emigrant who got robbed of 300-400 crowns before he left Stockholm. His coat was cut up and his wallet stolen. It happened in a crowd at Kungstradgarden. The boys from Gastrikland traveled by the same train to Goteborg. They saw Vedin walk crying on the platform all night. He is married and has five children. A subscription list has been circulated on board and I contributed 1 crown.  
     My old pencil is worn out which is OK as the lead was very bad. I still use the pen holder. I would appreciate if Gosta (brother) would send my regards and thank the boys from home who traveled to the Central Station to say goodbye to me. I really appreciate to see them and I had not expected it. I will remember them with a few lines now and then. I will have a huge job writing to everyone I promised. I want to know Gothberg's PO Box number in Tullinge. He also wants to hear from me. Yesterday the office was closed. I will send the telegram today. Yesterday we got our passes, where your name, age, native country and an ordinal number in gigantic figures is written. I have number 22. I hope it will bring me luck.
     June 29, Friday, 8:30 AM.
     Today at noon it will be exactly 10 days since we put off from Gothenburg. Early tomorrow morning we shall reach New York. Yesterday afternoon I went up to the telegraph station and wrote the following telegram: "Lindell Separator Tumba Sweden. (father, employer, location)
Go ashore Monday. All is well. Regards, John" According to a message on the notice board it would cost 6 crowns but the telegraph operator informed me that it would cost 16.20. I was very surprised but learned that 6 crowns was applicable while we were still in direct connection with Sweden. Now we were close to the American coast. On Midsummer's Eve I could have sent the telegram but I wanted to wait some days. That's why you did not receive any telegram.
     We have had +23 C  (73 F) until 6-7 PM. Yesterday evening at 7:40 we watched for the first time the blood red sun set in the sea. On the surface were just a few small ripples, no wind at all. I can tell you that it was very beautiful indeed.

Translation; by Christina Spolen, John Oskar's niece.
See online - Ellis Island Foundation

Voyage from Sweden 1923 (2 of 3)

                   

                                 
                                           Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo  "Seascape"

     The S/S Potsdam was constructed for the Holland America Line by Blohm and Voss in Hamburg, Germany - launched in 1900. The ship was 168 meters long (550 feet) and weighted 12.6 tons DWT. It had twin propellers and capable of up to 15 knots, a disappointment for the designers. The ship could transport 2300 passengers. In 1915, the Swedish American Line purchased the ship and it was renamed the S/S Stockholm. One of its most notable cruises occurred in 1917 as the Stockholm brought home from "The Great War" one thousand African American and Puerto Rican soldiers of the 369th New York Regiment, the "Harlem Hellfighters" - so designated "Hellfighters" by the Germans. The 369th ". .  never lost a man to capture, lost a trench or a foot of ground to the enemy."*
     In 1923, at age 19, John Oskar Lindell, my father migrated to America. The following is from his travel  report to his father and mother.
     S/S Stockholm; June 23, 1923 - Midsummer's Eve, 1 o'clock.
     Today we have thought about going ashore to pick some birch leaves. I just wonder where dad has picked leaves to dress the maypole this year. You cannot ask for a more pleasant weather than we have today. It is evident that we are heading south, it gets warmer everyday! We have received a radio message telling that a heat wave is passing America. I am seriously thinking of sending a radio telegram to you in a few days. I can imagine how happy you would be, 10 words costs 6 crowns. The ship does hardly dive at all today; we have the best imaginable weather. We had rough seas for a couple of days, when the ship rolled for sure. If she starts to roll now it would not affect me at all.
     A ship like this is not as comfortably fitted as you would think. There is no room for writing; one has to write in the 3rd class bar on the serving table, which is often very dirty with beer, orange cordial and cigarette ashes. The best way is to lie bent forward and write against the leather sofas, provided that you have a book underneath of course, if not it is more difficult. When the passengers get sick they crawl up on deck where they lie in big heaps on tarpaulins like lifeless, most of them on their stomach, which is said to be the best. Those suffering from severe seasickness remain in their cabins. You should not think that everybody is sick, far from that, those who have avoided being sick are real noisy indeed, they sing, dance, play cards and tell stories. All games with money involved are strictly forbidden. You are not allowed to stay in your cabin during the day and I don't want to either. There is a terrible smell that I don't like and some surfaces are freshly painted too. On Midsummer's Day we had rough sea and on Monday as well. Thus I did not feel inclined to write on any of those days.
     Tuesday between 3 and 4 PM.
     On Midsummer's Eve there was dancing on the deck and cinema in the dining hall. We have movies a couple of times per week. Every afternoon between 4 and 5 a string-band of 6 men plays fine music I can tell you. I sleep in a 6-bed cabin on the starboard side in the stern of the ship. As cabin pals I have an 18 year old boy from Gotland. He travels to his father in the USA, whom he has never met; further two boys about 25 years old from Norrsunda in Gastrikland; an American sailor and finally a boy who has been employed by the Hamburger Brewery in Stockholm, working in the office. He travels to his brother who owns a cutlery factory in Rockford, ILL. Decent boys all of them. A 6-bed cabin is very narrow, but now I am used to it so it's OK. In the morning we have to dress two at a time. Two of the six hangers are on the inside of the door. At the ship's owners office I saw pictures of 4-bed cabins but not of any 6-bed cabin, because they don't want to show how narrow they are. Today I am sitting in the gentleman's saloon, which is rather good. The band plays while I am sitting here and they play beautifully, believe me. The American sat down right opposite me just now, shirt sleeves rolled up, his arms covered with tattoos.
     Please excuse my handwriting! Some people say that we won't be allowed to go ashore until Monday while US citizens would be let ashore already on Sunday. In any case we will arrive on Friday. We start getting restless on board. We want ashore as soon as possible, we have had enough of sea journey. We were many who thought this would be a pleasure trip, but you could hardly call it that. The days are getting nice now, we had +20 C in the shade (68 F) and there is a strong wind. The musicians are just now playing a charming piece of music. When I get up on deck I will ask "Hamburger" about its name, he will know that as he like me loves music. "Hamburger's real name is Knut Palmgren, he has a small . . .(?)
     The mist does not become less dense until now. Otherwise the weather is very fine. The sun is warming and no wind. We have nearly +25 C in the shade (77 F). Not until today did I touch the food I brought. Our group had a party on the stern, we ate butter and bread, anchovies, sausage, smoked ham, cheese and crisp rolls. I have not tasted the cordial. They have been kind enough to withdraw the dessert from the dinner menu except on Sundays of course when we get a dessert and one beer each.

  * Wikipedia - see S/S Potsdam, S/S Stockholm; see also The 369th New York Regiment.;
     Ellis Island Foundation.

Voyage From Sweden 1923 (part 1 of 3).

                                               

SS Potsdam 1900

SS Stockholm 1915

         John Oskar Lindell was born in Tullinge, Sweden on October 6, 1903. He was the first of three  sons and four daughters born to Albertina and Oskar Frederick Lindell. In 1923 at age 19, he  migrated to the United States. The first of several "travel notes" written during this trip follows. They had been carefully copied by his father and saved in his personal "little black notebook". The translation is by  John Oskar's niece Christina Spolen.

    

    The SS Potsdam was launched in 1900, sold in 1915 by Holland America Lines to the new Swedish American Line and renamed the SS Stockholm. In 1923 the"last wave" of the industrial migration from Europe occurred. Six years later the ship was sold to a Norwegian Whaling Company and in 1929 became the SS Solglimt. In 1940 she was captured by German Naval Forces and renamed SS Sonderburg. A British air strike on Cherbourg in 1941 partially sank the Sonderburg and in 1944 she was scuttled by the Germans to block the harbour. 1946 - 1947 The hulk was towed to the United Kingdom and scrapped.*

        

SS Stockholm - June 19th, 1923

         I would never have imagined that I would receive such a hearty farewell. Just imagine what a great number of friends at [Stockholm] Central Station, at Tullinge Station and at Tumba Station, where I had expected a half dozen. The boys were standing there in a long line and at Tullinge the railroad station and on the road to the goods shed it was crowded with people, who completely showered me with flowers. Now the boat shakes and therefore my handwriting gets a little crumped but I write as good as I can.

     To Goteborg I traveled together with a Swedish farmer from America, a boy a little older than me, who works on board Stockholm as a kitchen hand and a well known athlete, Hellas Persson. He is a gymnast, general athlete, good hammer-thrower and wrestler. Tell Gosta [brother] that Hellas P. had a letter of introduction from Ernst Lindblom (Sving) to Hj Lundin in America. I saw the letter. As you know mom and dad I traveled by a special train. Therefore Erland was not at the station but he went there for a later train.

     On our arrival in Goteborg the farmer, the athlete and I had coffee together. Then I went up to the Vahlstroms and met Erland on the stairs. Mrs Vahlstrom is such a kind woman. She immediately invited me to dine with them. I wanted to pay her but I was not allowed to. I was also offered to stay the night there but I had already fixed that. Tickets bought [for] America were not valid for that free stay in Goteborg (in Stockholm they could not tell). The Institute of Commerce however, has been opened for visitors to the exhibition and to emigrants. There I could sleep for 1.50 crowns per night, not on the floor as mom and dad might think but in a real iron bed.

     On Monday I had no time during the day to see the exhibition. I had to run to the office quite a few times for passport and ticket and also twice to the doctor. But in the evening Erland and I went there. Mom and dad, you could never imagine how beautiful the exhibition grounds are in the evening illumination. It's altogether like a fairy tale. I can't stop thinking of the minarets and the memory hall as it was all so extremely beautiful. Erland and I went on the switchback railway and we danced, enjoyed ourselves until midnight. I mustn't forget the three English tight rope walkers. They walked blindfolded, they biked and danced on a tight steel wire at a considerable altitude. As Erland and I walked from the exhibition we had to look back several times to admire the minarets and the memory hall because all was so very beautiful. From there I had only a 3 minute walk to the Institute of Commerce. In my hall there were 26 beds but only 10 were occupied. When I arrived after midnight everyone was snoring. Close to me was an old man with a big moustache. I wondered if he might be the farmer and in the morning I realized that it was him. On Tuesday the whole town was decorated with flags. I mentioned to the farmer that they expected the king to arrive. Then he leaned very close to me and said; "I'll tell you that I don't give a damn about the king". He did not dare speak out loud so that the by-standers would hear - a nice chap he is.

     Midsummer's Eve, Saturday, June 20th ** 

     At noon the steamer put off while the music played the Swedish national anthem; "Du gamla du fria" ["Thou ancient, thou free"]. Leonard E., Erland V and a cousin of Erland's were present at the ship.

     Soon after departure the bell rang announcing dinner, consisting of spinach soup, veal steak with potatoes and rice pudding with fruit sauce. The food on board is good. I belong to the first sitting. At 7 AM oatmeal porridge, fish or meat and coffee. At noon lunch often with three courses, at 3 PM coffee with sweet bread, at 6 PM supper. Butter, cheese, anchovies, a fish or meat dish and tea. First day moderate sea, second day rough sea. Now the seasickness has started to assert itself. I began throwing up and thus only ate every second meal, third and fourth day the same, fifth day completely well again, just a little weak legs. However, I have been up every day. This is the reason I have not started to write earlier. Now it tastes good to eat again.

* See: Henrik Ljungstrom - research online; Also Wikipedia - SS Potsdam.

          Photos from Wikimedia; Also Fred Pansing - SS Potsdam

** June 23rd, 1923 ???

Soviet Students at Hartwick

     

                                                       Goritsky Monastery

                                   

                                                        Hartwick College

     The New York Times in 1990 reported that Yale and Columbia were the first universities in the United States to enroll full time Soviet undergraduates. (The USSR began allowing its nationals to study in the US for a year at a time in 1987.) Depending upon actual dates this may or may not be correct. Hartwick College and the State University of New York at Oneonta in the same year had each enrolled a full time Soviet undergraduate. This was the beginning of a short term competition to get Soviet students onto American college campuses.
     I had been invited to do some teaching and consulting in Soviet Russia in 1989. It occurred to me that with a proper scholarship offer I should be able to bring a Russian student back to Hartwick. The President of the College, Philip S. Wilder liked the idea and charged me with drafting the scholarship offer. Later that week jogging in the hills around Oneonta, the President of SUNY Oneonta Allen Donovan caught up with me on a descending road. I shared with him my plans and he responded "Bring one back for us". He then forged ahead on the ascending slope.
     Armed now with two scholarships either of which might have pleased a Big Ten quarterback I arrived in Pereslval-Zalessky. It was not clear to me how the five candidates I met were selected but I subjected each to my English language competency test - they all passed. In this group Alexey stood out - 17 years old, intelligent, energetic, adequate English skills and clearly he wanted the opportunity. He became my first choice. I mulled over the remaining candidates.and another interview was arranged - with Jon, 25 years old, adequate English, mature and already a graduate of a Soviet fixed wing training program. Jon came in second. Alexey at Hartwick majored in Computer Science. (To improve his English language skills we immediately enrolled him in calculus and physics courses - strengths of the Soviet educational system. He could probably have taught the courses.)  Jon went to SUNY Oneonta and both graduated four years later. Alexey is now a software expert living in Massachusetts and married to a beautiful Boston Irish girl - they have two handsome, blue eyed, brush cut.sons. Jon had some difficulty detaching from college life and about him I know little more.
     The following year I returned to Pereslval and interviewed several candidates. I offered a scholarship to Marina, a student at School #7. Marina's English was quite good and her intellectual brilliance was attested to by practically every teacher and administrator I encountered. They were not exaggerating. Marina came to Hartwick, majored in computer science, graduated with excellent grades (including one from me) and secured her MBA from MIT. Initially she worked in Boston for an organization concerned with cyber security issues. She has risen through the ranks and is now a Vice President at the investment bank Brown Brothers Harriman.
     The following year Elena arrived, another Computer Science major and the year after Andre who chose Economics. Their connection with the College was now the work of the Hartwick International Programs Office and my role faded away. They both graduated and disappeared from my radar. I did try to establish an exchange program with the small University of Pereslval-Zalessky - two students came for a term but the program sputtered out - problems associated with costs and language proficiency on both sides were insurmountable. But for a few more years students from the former USSR arrived via other international programs to grace and enrich the Hartwick environment. A few I remember well.
     Aidana a young lady from Uzbekistan mixed oriental beauty with Soviet naivete. When I began a seminar with "Remember - what other people tell you is interesting - what I tell you is truth!" Aidana was the only one who did not laugh. I worried about that but quickly discovered she had encyclopedic knowledge. From time to time as I would prattle on with a professorial soliloquy, I might lack (read "forget") a name, date or event. At such a moment I would point and say " Ms. (Aidana) what is the date my memory refuses to provide?" She would immediately provide the essential information - never with a smile. As the term progressed my questions to her became more complex. "Ms. (Adiana), what did I really mean by that last piece of convoluted analysis?" Gohar was from Armenia and also possessed a wonderful mind packed with information. As with Adiana she filled in the blanks in my information when asked - frequently with a smile. They were both a tremendous pleasure to have in class.
     Turana's home was Baku, Azerbaijan and she came to my office for advice. She was seeking an internship and had picked one out. What did I think of it? Her choice was a fine idea - a worthy organization. We chatted for a few minutes and I asked her to try something else. She went back to the Internship Office and completed an application for the New York City Police Department.
     A week later I received a telephone call from 1 Police Plaza. "Do you know Ms. (Turana) ?"
     I replied "She's from Azerbaijan, speaks four languages plus flawless English."
     She thoroughly enjoyed the internship and I trust learned much. Perhaps someday I shall discover what impact interning with NYPD had on her life in Azerbaijan - if any.
     Rodica came to Hartwick from Moldova. Intelligent, confident and dynamic describes her properly. In class she enjoyed challenging the professor's (my!) ideas. Rodica was also a vigorous proponent of Human Rights. This young Moldovan woman secured an international internship to travel to Armenia and assist in establishing a women's rights organization. She completed the internship (safely) returned to the United States, graduated from college and married. I can not but believe that social ripples from Rodica's visit must continue to waft across that small nation.

Hugh in the Ancient Inca Capital

                                           

                                   
                                                           Cusco, Peru
      It was Hugh's good fortune in 2011 to visit the historic capital of the Inca Empire - Cusco, Peru.
His mother Dr. Catherine Lindell, a restoration biologist and ornithologist at Michigan State University was scheduled to present research at the IX Congress for Neotropical Ornithology held November 8th to the 14th. It was his grandfather John's good fortune to be invited along to hang out with Hugh while his mother was professionally preoccupied. Then 9 years old Hugh was intelligent, articulate - an outstanding soccer and basketball playing violinist. I write this as a dispassionate but informed observer. The question - what can two individuals, sharing they believe keen intellects but separated in age by three-quarters of a century do together to occupy the day in a UNESCO "World Heritage Site ?*
    Peru's constitution recognizes Cusco as the "historic capital" of that nation. It has a resident population of 450,000 and 2,000,000 visitors annually. Positioned in the Andes Mountains at 11,200 feet altitude sickness is a deleterious possibility for any tourist. While Hugh and his mother adjusted rapidly to the thinner atmosphere John did not. Medical literature lists eleven symptoms of common altitude sickness. John experienced nine of them including profound weakness, skull busting headaches and explosive diarrhea. (Hugh thought the last symptom was pretty hilarious.) Cusco residents offer visitors hot coco leaf tea to ward off the effects of oxygen deprivation. While enjoying the tea immensely John derived little benefit and drained of energy sought less demanding activities.
   
                                                 

                                                                           
                                                    Hugh, Goat y dos Muchachas

    He would lead Hugh on walks to nearby parks. The Hotel Machu Picchu is located across the street from a city focal point - the Plaza de Armas. So the two would slowly proceed to the Plaza and then sit on a park bench. After John had rested they would set off over granite brick streets three additional blocks to another park - Plaza Regocijo (Place of Rejoicing!). John would find a bench and they would sit again. He tried to make it lively for Hugh by pointing out the number of seemingly stray dogs wandering about (three or four at one sitting!). Hugh would nod out of politeness while successfully masking incredulous boredom. John would somewhat recharge and they would push off across San Teresa Street, up San John de Dios Street to the Plaza San Francisco and another bench. Occasionally they would enter a building that was inevitably crowded with shops and stalls - all selling alpaca knit goods. Listlessly they wandered to and fro and would then exit. Hugh would later remark that he did not like " that tourists were so targeted to sell stuff to". It was true - so true but John and Hugh weren't buying anything. Once they stopped and purchased three ice cream cones - the extra for a dog lying on the sidewalk. The dog sniffed at their offering, refused it and went back to sleep.
    In the Hotel they would spend time lying on the beds watching televised soccer games from Mexico, Spain, Italy and Germany - betting nuevo sols (1 Peruvian nuevo sol = $.30 US) on each game. Then to speed up the action placed side bets on which team would score the next goal. This was fun. Hugh understands the value of money and was always an excellent winner. So then money was infused into other activities. Bordering the Plaza de Armas is the Basilica Catedral, a "working" church with an immense collection of religious art. One day to expose Hugh to fine art and religious ideas simultaneously John purchased tickets to La Catedral. Intuitively understanding that a 9 year old male might be bored by hundreds of paintings of angels, saints, martyrs and deities, he decided to make it financially worth his while. John promised to pay Hugh 3 nuevo sols for every art work he discovered containing someone with a smile. Over the next hour among the array of paintings and sculptures they found one definite smile and five "maybes". A heated discussion of the enigmatic "maybe smiles" ensued - perhaps it was simply a smirk by a cherub or baby contentedly passing gas. Finally Hugh was awarded 17 nuevo sols ($5.00 US).
    When Professor Lindell was available the three of course did things together. Each Sunday in Cusco there is a parade of surprising duration - two to three hours. Groups of happy, uniformed school children, patriotic and religious organizations as well as military units wind their way through the core of the city passing La Catedral. From our Hotel we crossed the Plaza de Armas and had a fine view. The marching military included a platoon of snipers in fringed camouflage along with army and police units. Of minor interest but nevertheless noted - the army units were equipped with M 16s while the police carried Kalashnikovs - a sign perhaps of intra-governmental competitiveness? The police were also led by a strikingly attractive female officer in beige riding britches and shining boots.
    At the end of the Congress they planned to take a day tour to the remains of Machu Picchu. Tickets were purchased. But neither John's mind or body would cooperate - the thought of awakening at 5:00 AM and climbing down stairs to begin three hours of travel was painful - the thought of climbing up anywhere at the site seemed masochistic. He gave his ticket to one of Professor Lindell's graduate students and they went to visit "a wonder of the world".  Later that day John went to the Plaza Regocijo, sat on a park bench and counted stray dogs, alone.
    Recently Hugh was asked what he liked about Cusco. "I liked the scenery and the liveliness of the town . . . what I didn't  like was the chaos in the streets". John was pleased he did not remember boredom.

* See Cusco, Peru - Wikipedia
Photos - Dr. Catherine Lindell

Sandhill Cranes in the Meadows

                                 

    In the Meadows Community reside at present four, possibly six Sandhill Cranes. The "four" make up one family. Sandhill Cranes have lived in Florida 2.5 million years. The oldest known fossils of these Cranes were discovered by paleontologists in the 1980s at the Macasphalt Shell Pit. There were a number of shell pits in Sarasota and Manatee Counties that today have given way to Nathan Benderson Park, its lake and "world class rowing facility".* The Park is less than a mile west of my "villa" style condo in the Meadows. Sitting in the office  one can observe numerous bird species attracted to the Meadows wetlands; Ibis in groups of three to eight, blue and white herons, limpkins, ducks, anhingas, egrets, wood storks, and occasionally starlings by the hundred. There is the periodic flash across water of a bald eagle, an osprey or the angelic glide of a pelican. Small bird species and alligators are also in residence.
            

     Sandhill Cranes (Grus Canadensis) attain a height of 3 to 5 feet, weigh 6 to 14 pounds with a wing span of 5 to 6 feet. They mate for life and require a wetlands habitat with shrubs and trees. Their chicks walk from the nest within eight hours of hatching able to swim. After nine or ten months the juveniles will leave their parents. They begin to breed at age 7 and have a life expectancy of 20 years. These Cranes are omnivorous - they will eat almost anything; insects, snails, reptiles, amphibians, small birds and mammals, seeds and berries. *
    The presence of various bird species in the Meadows is the result of  some luck and good planning. The 1960s was the period of "urban renewal" in American cities. Much of the renewal resulted in apartment buildings that often became slums; old neighborhoods razed to construct four lane arterials to connect sprawling suburbs; the stores and services of the traditional "downtown" areas decayed or relocated. At about this time urban planners began to focus on "British New Town" designs. The objective of British planners was to enhance "livability" in new and refurbished urban spaces. A "new town" required the incorporation of certain features to whit; open spaces, (parks, nature preserves, a golf course) curving lines are more interesting than straight - so streets and sidewalks should be curved, twisting. "Livability" is enhanced by diversity in the population. Thus housing should be unique in design and mixed in value - single family houses, townhouses, condos and villas. Services (grocery stores, medical facilities) should be readily available and accessible by public transit as well as automobile and in a perfect world, bicycle and walking.
     In the early 1980s, Taylor Woodrow, a British developer began construction on 1,650 acres in northern Sarasota County - the Meadows. As of 2015 this development consists of 700 single family homes ranging from McMansions to the merely expensive. There are also  2,800 condos and villas - all organized into 50 different condo and homeowner associations. Meadows residents number around 7,500 for at least part of the year. There are 14 miles of sidewalks and 17 miles of roadway - all serpentine. Admittedly this has caused some confusion among delivery services and visitors - but then solved with the advent of GPS. The Meadows has 82 ponds. Our resident Sandhill Cranes spend some nights on an island in the middle of a pond next to a fairway. There is also a small nature preserve, a children's playground, and a butterfly garden. There is a "services" village with a bank, two restaurants, one deli, a dental office, travel agency,  masseuse - and a school bus runs through it. Yes, there is a country club with 3 golf courses, (two are now public) 17 tennis courts, a swimming pool, fitness facility and three additional restaurants.
    The British planners got it right - The Meadows is a most comfortable place to live and various bird species agree. On an April morning 2014, I had to dismount my bicycle at a small traffic jam - three cars on Marshfield Street.. A Sandhill Crane has just stepped off the curb and begun a cautious street crossing. A few feet behind another crane, most likely a female, moved slowly into the street. Next came two short, dun colored haystacks with beaks and stick legs. Once safely across the procession proceeded down a cart path and disappeared.. Traffic resumed passing the MCA sign "Caution-Sandhill Cranes".
                           

   
     During the succeeding nine months the two chicks became handsome juveniles. Many residents have seen the family in various locations - always on the move - always eating.  At dusk on occasion one can watch a Crane fly over - legs extended straight back, wings effortlessly propelling them forward, amid noisy honking by the leader of what might be precise directions - they are a splendid life form. When they parade by your window - stopping perhaps to devour a grub - they add immense beauty to life - 2.5 million years and they abide. As I type these words the four have just flown by my window - the leader squawking a blessing.

* "All About Birds" Cornell Lab of Ornithology - on line. International Crane Foundation - on line.
    Southeastern Geological Society; "SMR Aggregates Inc.- Sarasota, FL - on line
     Photos by Wikimedia.org and John Lindell